Where to go in Borneo

The provincial capital of Sabah, on the northeastern tip of Borneo, ‘KK’ is a historic and highly multicultural port city. Its influences range from colonial British to indigenous Malay, with a heavy dose of ‘Baju’ (sea-faring southeast Asian) and Chinese for good measure. A stay in the city provides eclectic shopping and dining, with nearby access to the underwater wonderland Tunkul Adbdul Marine Park and the jungles and the soaring peak of Mount Kinabalu National Park.

The lush, muddy waters of the Kinabatangan River, snaking some 560km through inner Sabah, are Malaysian Borneo’s most renowned wildlife destination. With plantations and logging encroaching on Sabah’s precious ecosystems, the Lower Kinabatangan was designated a protected area in 1997, and in doing so one of Asia’s most ecologically vibrant wildlife destinations was created. You’ll find the tree line on either side of the river positively teeming with life: stay at a comfortable riverfront lodge, and embark on boat safaris up and down river catching sight of proboscis monkeys, wild orangs, hornbills, pygmy elephants, and crocodiles. With plantations and logging encroaching.

The rainforests of the Tabin Reserve are co-managed by the Wildlife Department of Sabah (taking care of the animals) and the Sabah Forestry Department (overseeing the trees). You’ll find a mix of primary and secondary jungle here, and with a thinner treeline in places, sightings in Tabin are arguably the most productive of any forested area in Sabah. Leaf monkeys are commonly sighted, as are orang-utan and hornbills. Clouded leopards are occasionally seen. Wild pygmy elephants can sometimes be heard crashing through the trees nearby.

Compact, charming Kuching is the provincial capital of Sarawak and boasts a fascinating history. Established under the Bruneian empire, it later thrived as a trading port under the British empire, falling under the rule of the Brooke dynasty of governors, known locally as the ‘White Rajahs’. Today it continues to be a thriving, eclectic port, with a heady dose of Chinese, Islamic, and indigenous influences.

Located on the far eastern side of Sarawak, Mulu is accessed via a tiny airstrip and houses just one hotel of note – the Mulu Marriott Resort. Even by Borneo standards, you’ll feel like you’re off the beaten track here! Typically included in a ‘Grand Tour’ of Borneo, Mulu’s appeal is in its staggering limestone caves – some are big enough to house a 747 – which are protected by UNESCO Heritage for their unique biodiversity. An essential experience is to visit at dusk, witnessing millions of bats spiral out in a perfect cone shape. Intrepid travelers can also take on the challenging Pinnacles trek – one of the toughest in Borneo.